If you’ve ever stared at your regular push mower and wondered if there’s a way to skip raking, bagging, and hauling all those grass clippings to the dump, you’re not alone. As a lawn mower supplier, I get this question at least a dozen times a week, from homeowners with small suburban yards to part-time landscapers looking to cut down on time and labor. The short answer is: yes, you can convert many regular lawn mowers into mulching mowers—but it’s not as simple as just swapping a part or two. There are a lot of factors that depend on what kind of mower you own, how it’s built, and what you’re hoping to get out of mulching. Let’s break this down like we would for a customer walking into my shop, no fancy jargon, just real, practical info. Lawn Mower
First, let’s make sure we’re on the same page about what a mulching mower actually does. A regular lawn mower cuts grass clippings and either blows them out the side of the deck into a bagger (if you have one) or leaves them in big, clumpy piles that can smother your grass if you don’t pick them up. A mulching mower, on the other hand, uses a special deck design and blades to chop those clippings into tiny, fine pieces—like the size of confetti—that decompose quickly, acting as a natural fertilizer for your lawn. It cuts down on yard waste, saves you time, and actually helps your grass stay healthier if done right.
So why would someone want to convert their regular mower instead of buying a new mulching model? Cost, mostly. A high-quality mulching mower can run anywhere from $300 to $1,500, depending on the brand and size. If you own a perfectly functional regular mower that’s only a few years old, dropping that kind of cash might not make sense. Plus, many people get attached to their mowers—they’ve used them for years, know how they run, and don’t want to replace them just to get the mulching benefit. That said, converting isn’t for every mower, and it’s not a one-size-fits-all fix. Let’s talk about the key factors to consider first.
The biggest one is your mower’s deck design. A mulching mower needs a sealed, airtight deck to work properly. The deck is the metal housing that covers the blade, and it’s responsible for trapping the grass clippings so the blade can chop them repeatedly into tiny pieces. Most regular walk-behind mowers made in the last 20 years have decks that are designed for side discharge or bagging, not mulching. They often have openings on the side or a place to attach a bagger, which lets air and clippings escape instead of recirculating. If your deck is open, converting it might require more than just a blade swap—you might have to plug those openings, which can be a hassle and sometimes doesn’t work as well as a factory-sealed deck.
Another factor is blade type. The blade is the heart of mulching. Regular mower blades are usually flat, with a slight curve at the end, designed to lift grass and cut it cleanly before pushing clippings out. Mulching blades (sometimes called “gator blades” or “high-lift blades”) have extra curves, fins, or serrated edges along the length of the blade. These features create the air flow needed to keep clippings circulating inside the deck, chopping them into small pieces instead of letting them blow out. Swapping your regular blade for a mulching blade is the first step in most conversions, but it’s rarely the only step. For some mowers, you’ll also need a mulching plug—a plastic or metal piece that fits into the side discharge opening to block it, so clippings stay inside the deck. If your mower has a bagger attachment, you’ll either need to remove the bagger and plug its opening as well, or find a mulching plug that fits both discharge points.
Engine power is another important consideration. Mulching takes more energy than side discharge or bagging because the blade has to work harder to keep clippings recirculating and chopping them into tiny pieces. If your mower has a small engine—under 5 horsepower for push mowers, or under 15 horsepower for riding mowers—converting it might not give great results. A weak engine will struggle to move enough air to keep clippings in the deck, so they’ll still blow out, or the blade will spin too slowly to chop them fine. You might end up with big clumps of grass instead of mulch, which is worse than nothing. For riding mowers, I always tell customers that if their engine is under 18 horsepower, converting is risky; if it’s over 20, it’ll work like a charm.
Now, let’s talk about the actual process of converting a regular mower, because that’s where a lot of people get tripped up. I’ve seen customers try to skip steps and end up frustrated, so let’s go through it step by step, as we teach it in our service workshops. First, make sure your mower is turned off and the spark plug is disconnected—safety first, always. Next, remove the old blade. You’ll need a wrench or socket set, and some people use a block of wood to keep the blade from spinning while you loosen the bolt. Once the old blade is off, clean the deck under the blade to get rid of any built-up grass or dirt—this will help with air flow later.
Next, install the mulching blade. Make sure you get the right size for your mower—blades aren’t one-size-fits-all, and putting on a blade that’s too long can damage the deck or the engine. Also, pay attention to the direction: mulching blades have a specific top and bottom, and they have to be installed so the curved side faces up, toward the deck, to create the right air flow. If you install it backwards, it won’t work at all, and you might even make your mower run worse.
Once the blade is in, it’s time to install the mulching plug. Find your mower’s side discharge opening—it’s the slot on the side of the deck where clippings blow out when you use it for side discharge. The mulching plug fits snugly into this slot, and you might need to use a rubber mallet to tap it in so it’s airtight. If your mower has a rear discharge opening (common on larger riding mowers), you’ll need a rear mulching plug too. Some people make homemade plugs out of wood or rubber, but I always recommend buying a factory-made plug—they’re cheap, usually under $20, and fit perfectly, so you don’t have to worry about them falling out mid-mow.
Wait—what about mowers that have bagging systems? If you have a mower that’s set up for bagging, converting it is a little different. Most bag-compatible mowers can work as mulchers if you remove the bagger and install both the side discharge plug and a mulching blade. But some newer mowers have a “three-in-one” design, meaning they can do bagging, side discharge, or mulching with the flip of a lever. If your mower is three-in-one, actually, you don’t need to convert it at all—just switch the lever to the mulch setting. That’s a huge point I always make to customers: if you bought your mower in the last 10 years and it has that three-in-one switch, you’re already halfway to mulching, no extra parts needed.
Now, let’s talk about when converting is worth it, and when you should just bite the bullet and buy a new mulching mower. If your mower is less than 10 years old, has a 5+ horsepower push engine (or 18+ horsepower riding engine), and you’re comfortable doing basic mechanical work, converting is absolutely worth it. The parts—blade and mulching plug—usually cost less than $50 total, and you’ll get that natural fertilizer benefit without the cost of a new mower. But if your mower is over 15 years old, has a small engine, or has a deck that’s rusted or damaged, converting might not work well. A mower with a rusty deck won’t create enough air flow, so even a new blade and plug won’t keep clippings circulating, and you’ll end up with clumpy mulch that does more harm than good to your lawn.
Also, there are some limitations to converted mowers that you need to know about. Converted mulching mowers work best when you mow regularly—never cutting more than a third of the grass blade at a time. If you let your grass grow too tall (like after a weekend away) and then mow it, even a converted or factory mulching mower won’t be able to chop all those long clippings into tiny pieces. They’ll turn into big clumps that smother the grass, so you’ll have to bag those clippings instead. Another limitation is for very large yards—over a quarter acre, a converted push mower might not have enough power to keep up, and a riding mower, even converted, might struggle if you have uneven terrain.
I always tell customers who are on the fence about converting to test it first, even if they have to buy parts and return them if it doesn’t work. Start by mowing a small section of your lawn, mowing at the right height (3 to 3.5 inches is ideal for most grass types), and mowing when the grass is dry. After mowing, check the clippings—they should be fine, almost invisible, after a week. If you still see big clumps, that means your engine is too small, or your deck isn’t airtight, and converting might not be the right move for you. If that’s the case, I always have a range of affordable mulching mowers for sale, and we take trade-ins, so you don’t have to waste money on parts that won’t work.
Let’s also address some common myths about converting mowers. A lot of people think you have to replace the entire deck to mulch, but that’s only for very old mowers with open decks. Most modern mowers can be converted with just a blade and plug. Others think mulching is bad for thatch, but that’s not true—fine, decomposed clippings break down quickly and add organic matter to the soil, which reduces thatch over time, not creates it. The thatch myth comes from people who use regular mowers and leave big clumps of grass, which do cause thatch, but mulch is different.
Another myth: you can convert any mower, no matter how old. Last year, a customer brought in a 1998 push mower that he’d had since college, swearing it “ran like a top” but didn’t mulch. He bought a blade and plug for $40, spent an hour installing them, and then called me frustrated a week later, saying it still blew out all the clippings. I went over to his house to look, and his deck had a huge rust hole on the side where the discharge plug wouldn’t seal. We tried patching it, but it didn’t work, and we ended up selling him a basic mulching push mower for $250, which he used for the rest of the season and loved. That’s why I always emphasize checking your deck first—rust or damage is a dealbreaker for conversion.
If you’re a homeowner who’s tired of raking, or a small landscaper looking to cut down on labor, converting your mower can be a great option when done right. The key is to be honest about your mower’s condition, your engine size, and how you plan to use it. And if you’re not sure if conversion is right for you, that’s what I’m here for. As a lawn mower supplier, I don’t just sell parts or mowers—I help customers find the solution that works for their lawn, their budget, and their mower.
Whether you end up converting your current mower or buying a new mulching model, the benefits are worth it: less time raking and bagging, less yard waste going to landfills, and a healthier, greener lawn. If you’re curious about conversion parts, want to test if your mower can be converted, or are ready to upgrade to a mulching mower, don’t hesitate to reach out to our team to start a conversation about what will work for you. We’re here to answer questions, provide recommendations, and help you make the best choice for your lawn care needs.
Mini Excavator References
The Ohio State University Extension. (n.d.). Mulching Lawn Clippings. OSU Extension Fact Sheet.
U.S. Environmental Protection Agency. (2022). Reducing Landfill Waste: Yard Trimmings. EPA Sustainability.
Lawn Institute. (n.d.). Lawn Mower Blade Types and Mulching Benefits. Lawn Institute Technical Guide.
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